Wednesday, 8 September

Up at 6:30; hot, luxurious shower (Jess had turned on the heated bathroom floor when she got up in the night). Managed to get dressed before breakfast arrived (muslix and toast, Vegemite for Jer, apricot jam for Jess). Turned on the TV to get the weather. World news horrible, Russian schoolchildren hostages, etc. Managed to get the weather (lovely) and fled to the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, located in and around the hot springs at Whakarewarewa.

First off was the hot springs, which featured bubbling mud and several geysers. Wandered about, looked at geysers blow up and mud burble. (We saw the Pohutu Geyser erupt 20ish m. in the air, among other water features.) Jer took 100-something photos. Unfortunately, a section of the springs was closed off to be renovated for the impending summer season.

Made our way back to the entrance, breezed through a reconstructed Maori village, and into the arts and crafts institute itself. The institute is a tapu (a.k.a. taboo) free zone, so some of the previously secret tribal designs and techniques are being shared. Unfortunately, we only managed to buy a few authentic Maori postcards, as the rest of the wares had prices reflecting either the artistry, for the expensive items, or the overhead, for the mass-produced ones.

Having just missed the bus back into town, we got a taxi in. Got off at the Jade Factory and exchanged some green paper (well, it’s not actually green) for some greenstone.

From there to the Polynesian Spa, where we soaked in the stinky, bathtub warm mineral pool, then in a stinky, hot semi-private tub. My back and Jess’s shoulder were both much improved, and Jess claimed miraculous curative powers with regard to eczema. Amusing note, the toilets flush with the steaming hot pool overflow. Headed back to town to get lunch, before hopping the bus to the Skyline gondola, luge, etc. On the way we saw a bird, which Jer photographed. At the Skyline gift shop, we saw pair of slippers that led us to believe that the bird called a Pukeko.

We tried to go to the Blue Baths for lunch, but it turns out that they only were doing tea Friday-Sunday. Instead, we wandered over to Capers, a cafe/grocery. Jer had a superb tofu sandwich, Jess had good pancakes with caramelized banana, though the bananas were a bit under-grilled.

We caught the city bus (first time ever) to Skyline. Went up the gondola, Jer was all freaked out (doesn’t like gondolas). Jer was unable to convince Jess to luge with him, so he went down the intermediate road by himself. Good fun, he think a vacation’s worth of luging is 1 ride or 100. Opted for 1. On the chairlift back up from the bottom of the luge, Jer noted the plentitude of helmets that had been tossed down. Gondola back down (oddly, Jess scared at the beginning, Jer not at all). Miraculously, caught the city bus back to town. Had a lovely chat with Andrew, who delivers milk. (Works 7am to 1pm 7 days a week. Not bad work if you can get it.)

Stopped in at Bistro 1284, turns out that the reason we couldn’t get seats was because they were booked for one large party. Plan B, “Japanese Sushi Bar River Monster,” was under new management and looked a little uninspiring. Ended up at Fat Dog, which was very popular. The atmosphere was fun and relaxed, and the lady who took our order was nice and chatty, but unfortunately the food could not follow through. Jess’ B.A.T. tasted fine, but posed operational difficulties. Note: three thick slices of toasted bread do not make for an easy-to-use sandwich. She ended up kickin’ it Atkins style and discarding the bread; the bacon, avocado and tomato were tasty on their own. Jer got the feta and spinach tortellini with tomato and olive sauce. It was a bland, yet disharmonious jumble of flavors and textures that he finished only because he was hungry. Jess’s potato wedges were excellent, though.

Easily caught a taxi home. Cabbie was quite friendly and chatty. Being from New York is much better than being from the US generally, as a global traveller. Instead of being an Ugly American, you’re Interesting (though definitely Rude, so people are doubly impressed if you’re actually polite). Anyhoo, once again made with the spa bath, then half-packed and to bed around 9:30.